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Tackle For Spin Fishing 


The constant cast and retrieve means, that the stress on the tackle is higher when you do spin fishing than for the more stationary methods. For this reason it is important to use high quality gear. This doesn't have to be be the most expensive stuff, but below a certain price region you just won't find the quality you need. If in doubt, ask in a discussion group, before spending a lot of money. The use of the new super lines with hardly any stretch and an extremely high tensile strength has farther raised the strain on the other components of your tackle. Also the weight and handiness of your tackle is more important, because you will be holding it in your hands at all times during fishing and won't lay it down to wait for a bite. I will try to say the most important thongs about all Components, without indulging in too much detail. Regarding the matching combinations of rod, reel, line and lure I have created a small tabular overview.

More info on the single Components:

Other Stuff

Swivels, Leaders, Lead

Normally I tie a snap swivel directly to the super line or I connect the line to a steal or fluorocarbon leader with a swivel. If there is a chance of Pike I always use a steel leader. The swivel and especially the snap have to fit into the other tackle in robustness, the snap has to be easily threaded through the eyes of the lures you want to use. Most of the time  I carry a small assortment of lead (olives, balls or the like) on me, in case I want to tie any weighted rigs (like a Carolina Rig), sometimes also some plastic beads.

Hook Remover, Pliers and such

What I've always got with me: arterial forceps for removing hooks. A pair of small pointed pliers for crushing the barbs of the hooks, sometimes also used for removing hooks and for any wire work. A pair of cutting pliers for Hooks, turning trebles into doubles on for emergency cases, when a hook sticks somewhere it shouldn't ( I have only once had a Hook in my flesh, but was able to pull it back out the way it came in with the pliers. I was so shocked it didn't even hurt). I always carry a Swiss army knife with me, even when I'm not fishing: it's on my key ring. Apart from the knife also the bottle opener and the cork screw come in handy. A hook sharpener is also an important thing, especially when your on a longer Trip. Although I do prefer to replace hooks to sharpening them.

Landing Net

I will always try to land the fish with my hands, if I can and I've got glove to protect my fingers from sharp teeth. I've been cut a few times by the razor sharp teeth of a pike (they really have a sharp edge, the're not just pointed sharp). But sometimes you do need a net.

Polarizing Glasses

If you fish clear water you should really have polarizing glasses. They filter out a part of the reflections on the surface of the water and enable you to see into the water much better. If you hold two polarizing Glasses one over the other and turn one by 90°, they will become black and non transparent (of course only for so long as you hold them over each other). If that is not the case, at least one of them is not polarizing. Because I wear prescription glasses anyway, I used to have some polarizing clip ons, which is much cheaper than the spherical polarizing lenses I now have.

Clothes

Well, of course you can wear what you want. But be aware, that a few hours outdoors in cold weather is not the same as walking from the car to the door. Wind and (wet) weather will cool you down even more, so your clothes should resist both. On a boat you are always likely to get wet, even in sunny weather!

Waders

Wading and spin fishing is an extremely successful and entertaining combination. It doesn't matter if it's fishing in shallow bays for pike or in a stream for trout: standing in the water eye in eye with your prey is just a completely different feeling than climbing through thorny bushes along the shore. I would always prefer wading pants over boots for everything but the occasional step into the water for landing a fish. Even "shallow water" can be quite deep, when you're standing in it and with boots you reach your limits in no time. I have got a 3mm neoprene model, which saves me a layer of underwear compared to the cheap thin PVC- Waders I owned before that.

Boat Fishing

I have owned an inflatable boat for years and have to say: a boat is a really good thing for Spin fishing. You can easily reach even the most inaccessible and secluded shore lines without risking your neck climbing. You will still have to cast a certain distance in a lot of cases when fish shy from the boat (I have observed that for Black bass a few times). You will be much more successful in getting lures out of snags. And last but not least: retrieving your lure from shallow into deep water is much better than the other way round: You will have less snags an especially all the sinking soft baits can be made to follow the bottom line much nicer.
A chapter of its own is trolling, for which you obviously need a boat (if we don't count the "walking along the bung walls" technique). Also all the vertical fishing techniques with jigging spoons, "hegene" or other lures are mainly done from the boat.

Boat

I already mentioned my inflatable, at the Moment I own a Porta-Bote. That is a small foldable boat which is also suited very good for fishing. These small boats have the big advantage that you can bring them into the water almost anywhere. You don't need a hanger and a slip. Of course they reach their limits on larger waters, but I have used the inflatable successfully even in calmer parts of the baltic ocean. Comparisoner Porta-Bote vs. inflatable. For fishing I would always prefer open boats, except for trolling on the ocean or really big lakes. Especially smaller boats give you more space when the're open and two people casting obviously shouldn't stand to close together.

Motor

A small out border will make your life easier, with rowing you will reach your Limits quite soon. Especially when you're not trolling, but want too reach that hot spot 5 kilometres away, where you saw a big fish yesterday. I own a 8 HP "licence free" Tohatsu, which usually does a good job, even though it did have trouble with the gas pump once.
For trolling an E(lectro)-motor is often better suited, because you can regulate the slow speed much better, but the out boarder will do for that also. The real advantage of the E-motor is, when your trying to keep the ideal position to an obstacle in a light drift or for slowly creeping along the shore line. For the fish an E-motor will not be much quieter than an combustion engine, because they will feel turbulences of the propeller with their lateral line. But for the fisherman it is much cleaner and quieter and you will experience more of the nature around you. 

Fish Finder

A fish finder is another great gadget to have on board, as soon as you fish in water which is more than about 5 meters deep. On one hand it is very informative to know the bottom structure and the depth, on the other you can really locate fish. Just knowing in which depth the baitfish are holding is very valuable information as well as the fact in what total depths the fish prefer to be. When trolling you will also want to know, when it gets to shallow for your deep diving plugs... 
I used to own a primitive Hummingbird, which was still good enough for the mentioned tasks. Ok, the resolution could have been better, it was in fact so bad, that I preferred the "fish ID" to the unfiltered data, because fish would sometimes just show up as two or three pixels. Also it had no Grey line function, so you couldn't tell if the bottom was hard or soft (except for rising gas bubbles of course), but still: having a fish finder, however primitive it may be,  is such a big advantage, that every boat fisherman should really own one.
Now I own an Eagle Fishmark 240, which has all the stuff I missed on my old one.

Downrigger

I also own a Downrigger, but have to admit I never caught a fish on a downrigged lure. But I'm not giving up and I'm confident that the principle is good. On the other hand I own some really deep diving lures and on them I have caught a few fish. My advice is: get the fish finder first .

GPS

A GPS is useful for two things: marking and finding "invisible" hotspots on big water. Finding your way home on big unknown and broken waters. Of course you could also enter the coordinates of Spots from maps, fishing magazines or friends and find them even on a completely unknown body of water.